3.4L DOHC Fiero Engine Swap Guide

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Once your powertrain is mounted to the cradle, you can install it into the Fiero.  Take special care when lowering the car down onto the cradle.  I suggest lowering the car a couple inches at a time and periodically checking clearances to ensure nothing interferes or binds.

Once your cradle, engine, and transmission are installed, you can begin connecting various cables, hoses, and lines.  The 4-speed money uses a unique shift cable orientation.  This particular orientation does not allow for a lot of room for an exhaust crossover pipe.  Furthermore, this car is destined for an area that does emissions testing so I had to retain all of the emissions control devices close to the stock location.  Therefore, I decided to use two front exhaust manifolds and fabricate a custom Y-pipe that would feed a single catalytic converter in the stock Fiero location.  Here is what I did for the Y-pipe...  Notice the EGR feed tube and header-thermo-wrap.

I ordered 2.5" mandrel bent exhaust tubing and custom cut, fit, and welded the exhaust system together using a Holley/Flowtech Terminator dual-outlet muffler.

Once the exhaust system was done, it can be removed from the vehicle as a 1-piece unit giving you access to other items for maintenance or assembly.  Moving on, it was time to install the Power Steering-DELETE idler pulley.  I went out the the junk yard and obtained these idler pulley parts off of another GM engine.

All you have to do is tap the top P/S pump hole in the bracket assy to match the threads of the bolt you intend to use.  In my case I used a 10mm x 1.50 metric thread tap.

Once your threads are tapped, you can install your pulley and parts and shim to the proper depth in relation to the other pulleys.  Since this is an aluminum bracket, it isn't a bad idea to fabricate a steel plate that ties in the upper bolt hole to another one of the holes on this bracket for added durability and strength.  I chose to make this bracket and also mounted the MAP sensor to it as well.

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